Most jewelry is crafted from individual components. The pieces are often
created on the jewelers' bench and then skillfully joined. The
components needed in most types of jewelry are incredibly simple. Even
the most expensive tiffany-style diamond ring features just three pieces
- the band of the ring, the gallery that mounts the claws, and then
finally the jewel itself.
With a few peripheral components such as earring-posts, chains, and
hinges (often known as “findings”), these basic components are used to
make everything from solitaire and gem-set rings, to earrings,
necklaces, pendants and more complex pieces. While the claw setting is
the most frequently seen method of setting gems and diamonds, there are
a variety of other methods also used to set jewels in precious metals.
Prong Setting
What does it look like?
 Also known as the Claw setting, the Prong setting has small metal claws
with a vice-like grip that are bent over the girdle of the gem to ensure
its secure and enduring position.
Typical prong settings have 4 claws. Prong settings with 6 claws are
also called the “Tiffany” setting because it was originally developed by
the founder of Tiffany & Co. in 1886. Marquise and Trilliant cut gems
can respectively have just two or three claws at the corners where the
points of the jewels are nestled in specialized v-shaped claws.
The prongs must always be equal.
The visible prong ends are often rounds, ovals, points, V-shapes
(usually called “chevron”), flat and sometimes formed into ornamental
shapes (usually called “enhanced prongs”).
Why is this setting used?
As all gemstones are suitable for Prong setting, it is the most
frequently used method of setting gems into jewelry because the prongs
are easier to adjust to the size of an individual gemstone.
Prong setting brilliantly shows off the gemstone, since the gemstone is
positioned higher and is more easily seen.
Prong setting is especially popular for solitaire engagement rings and
in bridal rings. When combined with Pave setting, prong settings are
considered to be the most suitable for women as this setting is more
feminine, especially for designs with smaller shoulders and smaller
gemstones.
Prong setting is best for earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings.
The more prongs, the more secure and safe your gemstones will be!
Bezel Setting
What does it look like?
 A Bezel setting is a crafted diskette of metal that holds the gemstone
by its girdle to the ring, securely encircling the entire circumference
of the gem. An age old technique that can appear very contoured and
modern, it is labor intensive and must be crafted to precisely
circumnavigate the outline of the gem.
Variations of the Bezel setting are the “Flush” or “Gypsy” settings. The
surface of the ring has a window cut into it that exactly fits the size
of the gem. Secured from underneath, the crown of the gem rises from the
ring beautifully catching rays of light.
When the setting half surrounds the gemstone it is called a “Half-Bezel”
or “Semi-Bezel”.
A Bezel setting needs to be balanced and straight, from angle-to-angle.
Gemstones cut with sides and angles are considered difficult, while Oval
and Round are easier.
Bezels can have straight, scalloped edges and can be molded into a
gemstone of any shape.
Why is this setting used?
A Bezel setting protects the edges, the girdle and the pavilion of the
gemstones.
Bezel setting adds height, dimension and a great modern look.
Bezel setting is best suited to people with active lifestyles. Bezel
settings are considered the best for men because this style of setting
looks masculine, especially when the designs have BIG shoulders and BIG
gemstones.
Bezel setting is best for earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings.
Pave Setting
What does it look like?
 Pronounced “pa vay”, Pave setting is a Claw-like setting. They are so
small they are barely visible. The claws are triangular in shape and are
usually handmade.
The settings are created by use of tiny prongs that hold the jewels on
both sides, or are crafted by scooping beads of precious metal out to
hold the gems in place.
Why is this setting used?
Pave settings produce a carpet of brilliance across the entire surface
of a piece of jewelry. The surface is encrusted, or quite literally
“paved” in diamonds and gems, and the body of the jewelry is brought
vibrantly to life.
Pave setting displays an illusionary bigger look using multiple
gemstones.
Pave setting is usually combined with other gemstone settings to add
more effect and beauty.
Pave settings are best for Diamonds. Pave setting is often used in
conjunction with white gold, which further creates an effect of the
whole piece of jewelry being crafted from Diamonds.
Pave setting is best for Round, Oval, Princess, Emerald, Square and
Baguette cut gemstones.
Channel Setting
What does it look like?
 A setting technique whereby gemstones are held side-by-side with their
girdles held between two long tracks of precious metal. When used with
Square, Princess and Rectangular shaped jewels, the effect is
breathtaking as no metal appears between the jewels - they appear to
float in a tightly bejeweled chain within the jewelry.
The gemstones in Channel setting are set closely together so that no
gold between the gems is necessary. This produces the maximum amount of
light and brightness from the gemstones and allows the jewelry to keep
looking bright for a long time.
In Channel setting it is very important gemstones with precisely cut
pavilions are used, if not the gemstones will crack or be lost!
Why is this setting used?
Channel setting is quite often used in commercial jewelry designs. Often
seen in eternity bands and tennis bracelets, gemstones are held
side-by-side by their girdles between two long tracks of precious metal.
Channel setting is best for Diamonds and for Round, Oval, Princess,
Emerald, Square and Baguette cuts.
Channel setting is best for rings and bracelets.
Bar Setting
What
does it look like?
 These are short bars that run like a railway track across a ring.
Gemstones are individually set between these bars leaving the sides of
the gemstones exposed to light.
An increasingly popular setting style, this technique maximizes the
amount of light entering the gemstones creating superior brilliance and
sparkle.
The Bar setting is a version of the Channel setting and can often
combine a contemporary and classic look in one design.
Bar setting is best for Diamond rings and for Round, Oval, Princess,
Emerald, Square and Baguette cuts.
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